Friday, September 26, 2014

Sentosa Restaurant in Raub (reblogged from Apr 2013)

Last week, we had dinner at Sentosa because our favourite was not open. This restaurant sits right in town center, next to the field. The wooden building used to be a clubhouse in the olden days, then turned into a taska (kindergarten) and finally now a restaurant. Sentosa was once in the small town of Benta, about 20 plus kilometres from Raub. Some changes in development and road straightening between Raub and Kuala Lipis, Benta got "cut off" from the mainstream traffic flow and I reckon it must have affected their business. The owners moved the restaurant to Raub a few years back and it stayed put till now. The restaurant is a halal restaurant - no pork and alcohol served. Testament to its popularity and staying power: rows of photos of dignitaries (including the Sultan of Pahang, the current PM Najib and ministers, celebrities) adorn its rustic plank wall...


 The peculiar form of its entrance, like an old-fashioned Malay house "anjung".


 High wooden ceiling...

 The Sultan of Pahang came-a-calling...

 We had a portion of steamed Krai (Puntius daruphani). The restaurant used to sell freshly caught Malaysian riverine fishes from the Lipis-Jelai river that included Patin Buah, Krai, Tenggalan, Temoleh, Tapah, Baung, Jelawat and Kelah. Due to pollution and habitat destruction, we can only be contented to be having farmed river fish these days (raised in cages along the river) like Krai, Patin buah and Tenggalan. Occasionally, some local fishermen bring in their catch and the restaurant will have it on their special menu. That having said, this restaurant still makes the best steamed fish dish in town, and in many ways better than many restaurants that I have had fish in KL.

If you ever chance by real river patin fish (Pangasius pangasius),  here are some tips to verify if you have the real McCoy or Mickey Mouse: the cooked fish belly must never have "mud" smell. In fact, it should exude an aroma of fermented figs and "kesum" on its belly wall - something which only wild fishes can have compared to farmed fishes. Another tell tale sign - look at the fins: river Patins stay mainly in mid-stream in swift currents and wild fishes should have very large tail fin in comparison to its body mass, like a well worked athlete. Farmed fish, like urban folks who lack exercises, will have visibly smaller fins. The oily layer on its belly has white translucent fat instead of the usual disgusting yellow fat that you would see on Patin fish bought from supermarkets and wet markets (these patins are of Thai origin but farmed in Malaysia with fish pellets and loads of other things unimaginable)

Best Kangkong Belacan in town.

Even better - Petai Sambal Ikan Bilis (Sting beans in anchovy spicy sauce). The beans are cooked to perfection and the anchovies crispy. Loved it.

The restaurant is not exactly the cheapest one in town and if you're ever ordering steamed river fish (or prawns), which is their speciality, do bring along enough cash...otherwise, enjoy your great meal.

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Return to Joël Robuchon's Atelier at Etoile...

This is my second trip to the same restaurant: to check if the menu has evolved and also to confirm my memories of the culinary works there. Well, since February, the menu has changed and I actually like this one better because it is more flavouful, or maybe because I like autumn ranges more...


 The winding mirrored staircase is always fanciful and très Parisian chic...

 No changes here. I chose a three-course menu for 43 euro and from experience, I can hardly finish them so I really can't go for the dégustation eventhough I would have loved to...

 Some touch of autumn colours on the decors...

 shot of foie gras and Parmesan foam - their classic amuse gueule...

Absolutely loved this entrée: a poached egg and some Iberian flavour (the ham). I am so absolutely stealing this recipe for my next dinner with friends...



 the lovely silken potato purée

 Strong on flavour - grilled beef with vegetables. The sauce has a tinge of the sea, probably from use of anchovies in the preparation. It reminded me of the Chinese oyster sauce found in Chinese braised pork dishes and the overall impression denotes a rather Oriental feel to the dish...

 Royal Gala apple in different manifestations: a granita and a tart.

 to finish...


Sunday, September 21, 2014

"Ho Chien" in Melaka (reblogged from Dec 2013)

Recent trip back to Melaka - we had pangs for some good "ho chien" or oyster omelette but the regular shop at the other end of Jonker Street was no longer making any -  a chat with the speciality shop owner (selling belacan and nyonya cookies) revealed that the ho chien lady has had a stroke - so end of our hope...however, my FIL knows another one at Jalan Kampung Pantai in the same neighbourhood (I get confused with the intertwined roads inside the old Melaka town) and so we managed to find it after a few minutes of driving around the crowded streets. Eating out or even visiting the old town center of Melaka in your own car is a very tricky thing because of the narrow streets coupled with some of the most confusing and intriguing road signs in Malaysia, not to mention the severely overcrowded narrow streets (where all the shops are) without parking. So if you need to venture to town to try some gastronomique adventure on your own, act early and do some reconnaissance work before being let down by lack of parking and of course, the traffic police is ever ready to write a summon so DON'T park illegally in Melaka!

 The restaurant has an unassuming name, like any other chinese resto...

Besides ho chien, they also serve fried soft-shelled crabs.

The lattice-work of the entrance.

The side entrance.

 They still have some original marble top tables left...

and some old-fashioned wooden chair usually found in Hainanese coffee shops, kinda pre-war feel to it...

 Star of the gastronomique adventure du jour: the Ho Chien. A batter of tapioca or sweet potato starch is pan fried with eggs, garlic and spices to form an omelette and the oysters are added on last with the chives. It is usually served with a simple chilli sauce.

 Some simple fare to go with: garlic fried baby cabbage and cantonese fried rice. Not bad.

A peek at the flat-bottomed wok used for the ho chien...

Geragao - a prawn fritter nyonya-style (reblogged from Dec 2013)

Recently back in Melaka, we saw fishermen selling geragao or shrimp seedlings (very tiny ones) along the road to Klebang. My MIL had some in her freezer and I requested for a tasting: voila the results...

 The tiny shrimps are actually used for a fermented prawn condiment called Cencalut used in local cuisine. However, fresh geragao can be added into a simple flour mixture (liquid) and then be fried in oil like a fritter. It is usually eaten hot with chilli sauce. It has rather surprising flavour...

The fresh geragao...

Gastronomique adventure at l'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Etoile (reblogged from Feb 2014)

I only had more or less a day in Paris recently and as usual without a plan. So I went wandering around Champs Elysées without anything in particular and because of the cold wind, I got hungry fast. The usual hangout at Chez Clement had renovated their menu to a much more commercial and restricted one, not to my fancy...so I went further up the street and entered a luxury store called Drugstore Publicis (liked this store because it sells all kinds of gastronomique delices, including premiun caviar from Petrossian and macaron from Pierre Hermé) with intention to eat early lunch at a swanky bistro - luckless, the snorty receptionist asked me to wait for another 15 minutes eventhough its door menu said service begins at 11:30 (which was the time I asked for a table). I walked further into the shop and suddenly realised there was a restaurant at the bottom of the mirrored staircase called "L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Etoile".  I walked down the staircase and were well received and the rest was history...(too bad for the snorty bistro at the entrance (to be avoided as it costs even more than a 2 Michelin-starred restaurant just 10 steps away).


 The decor is rather modern with a zen twist, playing on lights and shadows and a lot of red contrasted against black, giving it an almost Japanese lacquer feel...




Guests are allowed to compose their menu according to their hunger/eating capacity and I find this good as one won't have to end up stuffed at the end of the meal (and over paying for that!). I chose a 3 items menu for lunch at 43 euros (value for money): 1 entree (cold or hot), 1 main course and a dessert. I opted for the cesar salad (it was called something else, I forgot), pigeon (additional 12 euros) and crêpes suzettes. With drinks and apéritif, it came to a total of 73 euro and absolutely full stomach. Excellent.

 The amuse-gueule: a shot of foie gras mousse with a drip of morel mushroom sauce and Parmesan foam. Flavourful.

 Bread served on a metal holder (looks like Alesi to me...)

Deconstructed Cesar salad. While the styling is rigorous, I find it to be too "sauced". Could be lightened a bit and a tad more bacon chips will deffinitely make it tastier...

 Star of the day: pigeon breast meat with seared foie gras wrapped in Savoy cabbage leaf and bacon. The pigeon melted in my mouth and paired extremely well with the foie gras. The whole was flavourful and rich. It could, however, be even better if the salad served were less "sauced" with the powerful and acidic dressing that tends to overwhelm. A light vinaigrette will definitely be better.

 The potato purée served on the side was smooth as silk and extremely rich in flavour. Best potato purée eaten ever anywhere...


 The chefs hard at work...

 The crepes were charmingly traditionnal served with the bitter-sweet orange sauce. Liked it.

 A little madeleine and chocolate to finish...

 The mirrored staircase


Culinaria mia...(reblogged from Jul 2014)

Well I was asked to try some recipes with some friends (luckily not me who paid for the expensive ingredients) as they are newcomers to dining French-styled.

So here's the pictorial result of the experiment (went well) ...


 Table set the way I like it - pure and simple lines


 Something to chew on while waiting: Serrano ham on indian mango

 A trio of amuse-gueule - sauteed mushroom with bacon and highlighted with piment d'Espelette, canard confit (duck) on orange segment and fresh tomato and roquette salade with octopus in garlic oil.

 First course: a twist on quiche Lorraine - salted cod (called Morue salée in French) is used, a traditional brandade ingredient and the filling is mixed with wilted onions and leeks, topped with Comte cheese and baked to golden brown. The cod must be soaked 24 hours before hand and the water changed a few times to reduce its saltiness as well as to rehydrate the fish. Always good served with a tangy salad (lemon-honey dressing).

Decadent: braised Wagyu ribs with wild cèpes and  red wine stock. The Wagyu is served on a bed of gratin dauphinois.  A crowd pleaser, especially the meat lovers!

 The cheese and salad was kept to a bare minimum for first timers - kind of initiating them to this part of the dining with an easy to eat cheese - petit camembert.

Crêpe Suzette made easy. The orange sauce was made by squeezing six oranges, reduced to half by boiling down with sugar and flavour with Grand Marnier and eau de fleur d' oranger (orange flower water). Blanched orange peel is mixed in to get the candied bits in the sauce.