Saturday, October 11, 2014

Confit of foie gras, in cans

Believe it or not, the French make very good canned foie gras and they are about the most consumed type of foie gras (called confit because of the slow cooking method), not only because of the delicate flavour of the liver being preserved but also because it is the most practical - chill, take out from the frigo, open the both ends of the can, slide out and voila! Instant gourmet cuisine.

Most supermarket chains in France produce their own lines for consumers, often in two different grades (price is a good indicator). They also stock brands from producers. For something special, one can often buy from speciality stores but the difference in prices would often make you think twice (though the taste is arguably better, only to the dicerning tongues).

Here are some...

 This is from a speciality store selling products from regional producers, guarantee of authenticity

 This is a common supermarket grade - believe it or not, tasting ten times better than any foie gras that I have tasted in Malaysia so far (even from expensive restaurants)...

 A slightly better quality type from local French producers (this one with port wine)

Those that come in glass jar are much better: this one has a famous chef lending his name to the marketing (also a supermarket brand). If you are at lost, always look for the AOP or AOC label, indicator of its geographic origin, a seal of authenticity (observe the small blue label with yellow fringe on the jar sealer above)

Once taken out from the can, they are cut with a special wire cutter (or any slim warmed blade) to avoid damaging the buttery consistency of the foie gras. Serve cold with toasted bread, savoury jams (usually onion jams but apricot and peach jams do equally well) and if you have, a swivel of balsamic reduction syrup....and to drink? Being a festive food, classically champagne if you are toasting, if not, a good Sauterne (classic choice) or any sweet wine like Monbazillac...They are often eaten at the beginning of a meal...bonne fête. 

Dinner at a 2 Michelin-starred Restaurant at Arbois (reblogged from July 2013)

My friend reserved a place for us to try out (for once at least in a life time) a 2 Michelin-starred restaurant in Arbois. It is a small town about 40 minutes drive from Besançon town and like all quaint little towns of France, extremely charming and rustic. If there isn't that much to brag about restauration in Besancon, this tiny little enclave has much to shout about: its famous yellow wine called "vin jaune", a wine with an interesting yellow tint and an earthy taste, another light claret wine called "vin de paille" or "straw wine" is equally famous for its sweetness close to a Sauterne...But the two biggest draw has to be the world renowned Hersinger Chocolate Maison and a 2 Michelin-starred restaurant called simply Jean-Paul Jeunet d'Arbois (namesake of the chef).

 View of the town centre in the evening...

 Outside of Hirsinger, right in the middle of the town...


 A sweet toothed person will have troubles in this shop...

 Nougat in all its possible incarnations...



 and fruit candies too...








 some remaining pastries and chocolate confisserie at the end of the day...



 Chocolat galore...the price is actually not as forbiding as one would imagine from an upscale chocolatier but it is never cheap to begin with...

 The name of the shop...

 and outside...


 Across the street, at a turn and this is a rather unassuming hotel/restaurant...

 Beautifully dressed room with a brigade of service to make sure everything meets the client's expectation. I ordered the tasting menu (lowest priced) at 110 euro...the waiters are extremely competent and will be able to address any requests, big and small...however, they'll never cease to try to push their expensive wines to you...



 A small tray of tasters called amuse-gueule to get things going...the fried quail egg was interesting but not shouting...the rest is a tiny window to the taste range of the region - summer tastes are typically linked to fenouil, aneth, artichokes, and wild flowers as well as regional products like the absinthe (a strong liqueur), jésus de Morteau (a large sausage) and vin jaune... the restaurant seems to concentrate on quality regional products used in imaginative ways.

 A trio of butter was offered to go with the meal: simple salted butter, seaweed infused butter and speciality sausage-infused butter (jésus de Morteau).

 Maquereau de Ligne Juste Poché au Beurre Citronné,
Sablé & Royale aux Graines d’Aneth Torréfiées,
« Chantilly » Légère à l’Absinthe

 Truffe d’Été & Artichaut Bouquet en Salade Décomposée,
Barigoule à l’Amande Fraîche & Fleurs d’Origan,
Croustillants d’Artichaut
 The summer truffles were crispy but they only have a faint perfume. The use of raw almond to balance the saltiness of the sausage and almond parfait was interesting.

 I chose this special bread - it is really yellow in colour because of the use of absinthe as a flavouring agent...

 ESCARGOTS DU PETIT MERCEY, BLETTES & ORIGAN
Etuvés au Beurre de Gingembre, Côtes de Blette Glacées, Tuile de Lard Cul Noir,
Petit Farci de Vert de Blette & Jus mousseux à l’Origan

 There are actually only 3 snails inside, perfectly cooked and prepared without a single trace of earthy sandiness. However, this is really a light dish, even for me who doesn't eat a lot.

 Entrecôte de Boeuf « Hereford Prime » à l’ Armoise,
« Farçon » au Jésus de Morteau Révisité
Radis Confit & Girolles Clous,
Beurre de Vin Rouge
 The beef was by far the most outstanding dish but again, too tiny for my liking. I actually had 5 entries (+ 2 light tasters and a selection of cheese) but felt like I didn't actually had that much to eat...

 Les Affinés à Souhait du Pays Comtois & de France: cheese as much as you can take.

 Chose a 24-month and 18-month Comté, a light blue cheese from the Jura and a smoked cheese from the Perigord...

 Abricots Bergeron Juste Pochés dans un Sirop Aromatique,
Blanc Manger à la Reine des Pré, Un Lait d’Amande,
Sorbet Abricot

La reine des prés, Filipendula ulmaria, is a wild flower that grows in wet habitat and has a rather strong aroma that needs getting used to.

 To finish, some tiny sweet things...

 Arbois is the birth place of Louis Pasteur...

 Some famous chefs came visiting...

 and the restaurant...

Simple pleasures...(reblogged from my main blog)

Over the weekend, I had the time to experiment with a few dishes...results:

 The table set as usual...

 Breakfast done as dinner: crispy bacon and Parmiggiano reggiano chips on poached eggs and strewn lemon cress...

 Cannellini bean stew (with lamb)

 A wonderful cheese with a nutty body: Morbier
Read about the cheese: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morbier_cheese

 Salade to go with the cheese...

Simple chocolate cake to sandwich crème de marron (chestnut cream) with a dollop of freshly made chantilly and raspberry